On Rangitoto

Rangitoto viewed from Cheltenham Beach

On a lovely sunny autumn day Brian and I visited Rangitoto, the volcanic island a short ferry ride from our home.

Disembarking from the wharf

We walked up the steep track towards the summit.

Lava beside the track
Auckland’s CBD in the distance

When we last visited some years ago we made it to the top, but not this time. Not only do we have less stamina nowadays, but the upper parts of the track are quite hazardous after the recent floods. So we went back down and sat in the sun to eat our packed lunch (there are no cafes on the island). Afterwards we walked along the coastal path towards Islington Bay.

On the coastal path

I was going to write a short description of Rangitoto, but thought AI might do it better. The following text was generated in a few seconds by ChatGBT.

Rangitoto Island is a volcanic island located in the Hauraki Gulf near Auckland, New Zealand. It is one of Auckland’s most iconic landmarks and a popular destination for tourists and locals alike.

Geology: Rangitoto Island is a volcanic cone that emerged from the sea around 600 years ago, making it one of the youngest islands in the Hauraki Gulf. It is part of the Auckland volcanic field, which consists of around 50 volcanic cones and craters scattered across the Auckland region. Rangitoto’s distinct symmetrical shape and its dark volcanic rock create a striking visual contrast against the blue waters of the gulf.

Natural Environment: The island is predominantly covered in dense vegetation, including native New Zealand flora such as pohutukawa trees, ferns, and shrubs. The pohutukawa trees, with their vibrant red flowers during the summer months, have earned Rangitoto the nickname “the Red Tree Island.” The island’s rugged landscapes and scenic trails provide opportunities for hiking and exploration, allowing visitors to experience its natural beauty up close.

Recreational Activities: Rangitoto Island offers various recreational activities for visitors. The island is accessible by a short ferry ride from downtown Auckland, making it a convenient day trip destination. Upon arrival, visitors can embark on walking tracks that lead to the summit of the volcano, offering panoramic views of Auckland’s skyline, the Hauraki Gulf, and the surrounding islands. Exploring the lava caves formed by ancient volcanic activity is another popular activity on the island.

Cultural Significance: Rangitoto holds cultural significance for the local Māori people, who consider it a sacred site. The island’s name, “Rangitoto,” translates to “Bloody Sky” in Māori, which is believed to originate from a historic battle that took place there. The island is home to archaeological sites, including Māori pa (fortified village) remains, which reflect its historical importance.

Conservation and Protection: Rangitoto Island is part of the Hauraki Gulf Marine Park and is managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC) in New Zealand. The DOC focuses on preserving the island’s natural environment, protecting its wildlife, and maintaining the integrity of its volcanic landscapes. Visitors are encouraged to respect the island’s fragile ecosystem by following designated tracks and leaving no trace behind.

Overall, Rangitoto Island offers a unique blend of natural beauty, volcanic history, and cultural significance. Its accessibility, diverse flora and fauna, and recreational activities make it an attractive destination for nature lovers, hikers, and those seeking a memorable experience in the Auckland region.

Desert island interlude

When the Devonport Scouts offered my husband and me a free overnight stay at Scoutsville, their bach on Rangitoto Island, I was both pleased and apprehensive. Not being one of those native New Zealanders who were brought up to spend their January summer holidays camping in remote seaside locations, I felt ill-prepared for 24 hours in an old wooden cabin with no electricity, water supply or coffee shop. I borrowed a couple of sleeping bags, packed as much food and drink as I could carry, and resolved to enjoy the adventure of going “back to nature” on one of the hottest and most humid days of the year.

Rangitoto, a 25 minute ferry ride from downtown Auckland, was formed when a volcano erupted from the sea bed about 600 years ago. The steep-sided cone, with a deep crater at the top, is covered in pohutakawa and other native trees and there is rough black scoria underfoot. Technically it is not a desert island, for a few people used to live in the old baches scattered round the coastline, but almost all of these have now been vacated or pulled down. By day it is populated by tourists walking the tracks up to the summit and around the coast, but by night it is seldom inhabited.

Accommodation at Scoutsville was indeed basic, but my practical husband knew how to boil up rainwater on the gas stove to make cups of tea, and good Vodafone coverage meant I need not be deprived of my beloved iPhone – though I refrained from checking my emails so often as I do at home. We spent the afternoon walking part way to Islington Bay, then ate an early picnic supper on the bench outside the bach, and went to bed when it got dark. There was a heavy storm overnight, and lying on a hard bunk while the rainfall pounded down on the roof did not make for a perfect sleep, but I woke refreshed and after breakfast we walked part way round the other side of the island to Flax Point before catching the ferry home. It had been a good experience. Scoutsville is available for hire at reasonable rates.